Tasting Tucson: Twist on a comforting classic at Mama Louisa's

TUCSON, Ariz. (KGUN) -- — It’s time for the latest edition of "Tasting Tucson' and a breakdown of a classic dish at an iconic restaurant in town.

Inside Mama Louisa's Italian Restaurant and Catering on Craycroft, Chef Michael Elefante whipped up a spicy plate of gnocchi that's an homage to his wife, her roots and his hometown.

"It's kind of a comfort dish for me as well," Elefante said. "My wife's family is from Calabria. One of the things they're known for is Calabrian chilis."

It appears Chef Mike and yours truly both have a soft spot for gnocchi.

First things first: Elefante said you need to drop the potato dumplings in boiling water.

To add green vegetables, Elefante recommended using either brussle sprouts or broccoli. This version used latter; Elefante said take a couple florets and cut them into very thin pieces.

"If you shave it, you don't really need a whole lot of it," he said, "because it's going to go a long way. We don't want this to be the main flavor of the dish."

Add salt, pepper and some baby portobello mushrooms.

Next comes the standout of the dish: A Calabrian pepper bacon jam. Elefante said he and his kitchen staff make and store the jam in jars.
They preserve a little onion, garlic, balsamic vinegar, agave to replace sugar, and Calabrian chili peppers. "These are like a little bit less hot than a Thai chili," Elefante said.

Not too hot for the host. For diners who'd rather avoid the heat, Elefante said the recipe also calls for a little cream. "The Calabrian chilies do have a little kick to them, so you just want to kind of take a little bit of that edge off."

As with many classic Italian dishes, you can't forget to add cheese. Elefante laid a healthy dollop of Ricotta on top the cooked and seasoned gnocchi. "Ricotta is something you can make in house, you can buy in the store. One of the nice things about making it in house is it's really smooth."

For a little extra flair and texture, Elefante laid a final layer of pickled onions, plus a smattering of pecans, almonds and hazelnuts.
Microgreens grown in Sierra Vista topped off the plate, ready to serve.

Through the process, Elefante answered our questions on having the ingredients ready to go when his staff is on the clock. Chefs call it 'mise-en-place': chopping up and organizing the elements ahead of time. Elefante said you can do this at home, too, the day before the big meal, to save time when things get stressful.

A brief breakdown of the recipe:

• Put gnocchi (12-20 dumplings) in boiling water until done/al dente
• As gnocchi cooks:
  
  • Cut brussels sprouts or broccoli (2-4 florets) and slice thinly
• Slice a handful of baby portobello mushrooms
• Toss vegetables with oil in a hot pan
• Season with salt, pepper, garlic, Italian spice combinations
• As vegetables cook:
  
  • Stir in Calabrian chili bacon jam (couple spoonfuls)
    
    • Mama Louisa's stores their jam in jars and can sell pre-made
    • Consists of thick apple-wood smoked bacon, Calabrian chili peppers, onion, garlic, balsamic vinegar and agave for sweetener
• Whisk and stir jam & vegetables
• De-glaze with white wine (Chardonnay recommended)
• Place cooked gnocchi in pan, coat with jam'
• Plate in serving bowl
• Lay a spoonful of ricotta cheese on top (can be homemade or premade)
• Place final layer:
  
  • Pickled red onions
  • Mix of hazelnuts, pecans and almonds
  • Microgreens